Thief & Moth by Amanda James

Name: Amanda James

Business Name: Thief & Moth

Location: Monona, WI

Website / social links: thiefandmoth.com, @thiefandmoth

Loom type or tool preference: AVL Production Dobby Looms (PDL)

Years weaving: 14

Years in business: 4

Fiber inclination: Natural Fibers - Cotton, Silk, Wool

 

 

1. How did you discover weaving and what was your greatest resource as a beginner?

I learned to weave while getting my BFA at the Kansas City Art Institute. My weaving instructor was  Pauline Verbeek-Cowart - what a gift it was to learn from her.

2. Tell us a bit about your mill. How did you start, what is your trade and what kind of production equipment do you use?

I spent several years out of college trying to figure out a product to market via weaving and nothing that I was seeing from any other weavers was particularly inspiring to my own work.  When I first thought that selling yardage and being a production weaver of small batch yardage might be a possibility, it was like something finally clicked into place.

3. What is your creative process, from the initial idea to the finished piece? Are there specific weave structures, looms, or fibers that are important to your process?

I often have a specific textile in mind, and then work backward to figure out how to create it.  If there is a weave structure I want to create, or a dye technique applied in a specific way - in my mind I see it first as a completed textile, then find a way to apply the knowledge I have to produce results. The only constant among fibers, weave structure, and tools are my tools - I use AVL Production Dobby looms to make yardage.  They have huge back beams to hold long warps, and the two I use most often have auto-advance, which allows me to be very consistent packing in each pick.

4. Is sustainability or conscious manufacturing important to your production?

Yes - I have found myself using a lot more cotton than I ever would have anticipated because my clients kept requesting it. This year I have been working on transition to organic cottons.  I can’t wait to use that exclusively for my cottons.  

 5. Does your mill sell direct to consumer or through other distribution channels? Is this distinction important? Does it affect your design process?

I have recently begun selling yardage direct to consumer, and it is so fun. I have loved selling wholesale and seeing what ends up being made with my textiles, and direct to consumer produces a much larger variety of garments and other finished products.  Someone recently applied some of my yardage to a lamp shade on this gorgeous wooden lamp… that was really great. 

 

6. A day in the life – what does a typical workday on the production floor look like?

My studio is in the back room of our home - it was an addition to the original home, put in by a previous owner.  Working from home has pros and cons for sure, but we also have three young children and that is simultaneously both the greatest pro and con - being able to be home with them and work simultaneously.  It is great for our family dynamic, and also very tricky to get into a real flow state without being interrupted. I often just sneak in and out of the studio for small chunks of the day. Afternoon is when I can really plan to get a lot done.

7. What is your favorite part of working within the textile/yarn industry? What’s your least favorite?

My least favorite is explaining the whole process to new clients who want the slower textile, but don’t understand how slow it really is - or the cost that comes with it. My most favorite part is rolling the finished fabric up and feeling the weight of this huge piece of cloth I’ve made.  It requires so much thought and work and energy - seeing it all come together into one finished piece is very satisfying.

8. Where do you find inspiration?

I take in countless images and look at a lot of other work - mostly other makers, potters, wood workers, printmakers, occasionally painters.  I save images for all kinds of reasons. Maybe there is a color combination, or a texture, or a visual rhythm, or just a mood. Then when I find myself looking at yarns and weave structures, or work with new dye methods I can flip through a rolodex of inspiration.  I doubt very often I could display an initial inspiration image with a completed textile and the connection would be obvious, but for me it’s there.

9. What other industry professionals do you admire – brands, artists, designers – and why?

I really admire anyone who is willing to see what their challenges are, and tackle them.  I’ve been a long time admirer of Liz Pape of Elizabeth Suzanne as a business woman and am very excited to see what she does next.

10. If you could no longer weave, what would you do instead?

I imagine I would still do something where I am making, or using my visual instincts.  Create sewing patterns, teach classes on making, etc.  I do have some interest in both ceramics and photography, but I would need to really put in some practice before I could make a career from either of those things.

11. We’d love to know – any 2020 goals, upcoming collaborations or exciting news to share with our community?

Some goals include: fully source organic cottons, release new yardages for direct to consumer, and figure out how to release a newsletter regularly. I am not talented at admin tasks like that.